- varying colors in a single warp, deliberately caused or inadvertently caused during dyeing.
- shawls with allover embroidery; in contrast to woven shawl (kamikar).
- narrow bands or fabric strips, woven separately and attached to shawl.
- as used in shawl weaving is a repetitively spotted line used as a minor accent
for border edges.
- floral motif, blossoms and leaves on zigzag stem; common on hashias and tanjirs.
- conventionalized teardrop-shape floral motif; paisley, pine cone, or mango shape
(also buta, buthi).
- see boteh.
- see boteh.
- small flower.
- ornamental covering for a horse.
- mango shape, Hindi term for boteh motif.
- moon, moon shawl.
- wheel, Indian spinning wheel.
- a figured motif that borders the field (also daur).
- long shawl.
- main central panel of shawl; can be surrounded by gallery, hashias, tanjirs, pallas.
- Fringe gate:
- different colored blocks of woolen fabric, often embroidered with mihrabs,
forming the fringe of a shawl.
- wide border, surrounding main central portion (field) of shawl and separating it
from the hashia borders.
- class of objects from reliquary boxes to amulets.
- side panel of flat weave textile, typically woven separately and pieced.
- resist dyeing process in which designs are dyed into warp or weft threads.
- fine floral detail.
- Kairi (Hindi):
- mango shape, another name for the boteh motif (also kairy or cari).
- sash (cumberbund).
- shawls in which designs were fully woven in (contrast to allover embroidery,
- workshop, under state supervision.
- coarse plain-woven cotton cloth, base for Phulkari embroidery.
- prayer niche of mosque; in shawls, the architectural element was echoed in
fringe gates of the mid-nineteenth century.
- Moon shawl:
- square shawl containing a central medallion and quarter medallion in each
- South Asian empire, which ruled Kashmir from capitals in Delhi and Agra, A.D.
- pairs of warp that occur in a 2/2 twill.
- shawl designer.
- Uzbek wall hanging.
- French term meaning "shaded." It is used in relation to textiles as an adjective to
describe fabrics with a dyed, printed, or woven design in which the color is graduated
from light to dark and often into stripes of varying shades.
- end panel of flat weave textile.
- unwoven Kashmir goat hair.
- woven Kashmir goat hair.
- sash; long and narrow shawl wrapped around the waist; could be used as a turban.
- exacting form of embroidery.
- male needleworker, shawl seamster.
- dyers of wool yarns.
- a circular decorative ornament, from the old French rondel, meaning "small
- square shawl.
- a yarn that has been spun to the left, or in a counterclockwise direction. The
twisted fibers slope to the left, in the same direction as an "S."
- edge on either side of a woven fabric.
- space between raised and unraised warps, through which weft thread is passed;
each shed comprises one row of weaving.
- weaving technique, used for texture, consisting of weft-wrapped groups of
- embroidered textiles from Central Asia, used for home furnishings.
- written coded plan containing instructions for shawl weaving.
- Talim guru:
- code master in weaving shop.
- portable religious painting on cloth.
- horizontal border, lying above and below the palla. Often identical to the hashia.
- Tarah guru:
- color caller in weaving shop.
- palace factory or workshop.
- bobbin, wooden sticks around which warp threads are wrapped.
- mango shape, Kashmiri term for boteh.
- see gallery.
- spiral or scroll shaped form.
- the lengthwise threads which are stretched on a loom, forming the underlying
structure or foundation of a cloth.
- thread which crosses the cloth at right angles to the warp, forming the pattern.
- geometric motif found in textile borders of Central Asia and Kashmir,
converging lines above a trefoil.
- a yarn that has been spun to the right, or in a clockwise direction. The twisted
fibers slope to the right, in the same direction as a "Z."